OITA Kunisaki Peninsula: A Land of Buddhas and Gods – Journeys in Japan
[Applause] Deep in sacred mountains dwell the gods of [Music] Shinto and Buddhism. It’s a place where ancient rights are still practiced. [Music] A place where a unique culture of prayer [Music] endures. On journeys in Japan, we enter the deeply spiritual realm of the Kunisaki Peninsula. Kunisaki Peninsula is located in northeastern Oita Prefecture nearly 800 km from [Music] Tokyo. Soaring volcanic [Music] peaks, ridges and valleys stretching to the sea. and a commanding coastline all define the area. David Conklin is a Tokyo based writer. The Kunisaki Peninsula here in Oita Prefecture appears very scenic as it juts out into the sea. I’m going to take a journey in search of the gods and Buddhas of the Kunisaki Peninsula. I can’t wait to get [Music] started. Wow, these are beautiful statues of Neo. [Music] So it looks like a big shimanoa hanging here in the gate. In Shinto, the Shimeawa sacred rope divides the world of the gods and humans. [Music] desk. Uhhuh. This looks like a Tory gate. And I thought Tory gates were only found at Shinto shrines, but this is a Buddhist temple, isn’t it? Wow, this is amazing. [Music] Here Buddhist and Shinto gods are worshiped side by side. [Music] Fore speech. [Music] [Music] See here. [Music] only thought it. These demonic creatures have long been feared all over Japan, but here [Music] Oni traces can be found everywhere. like in these stone steps built overnight by one. Wow. The path leads to a massive fud, a Buddhist divinity carved into the rock face. Wow. Tori out here in the [Music] forest. Man, what is this place? Never seen anything like it. But I can really sense that there’s a lot of mystery here in the forest. Gorinto five element stupas mark graves and places for offerings and oni is believed to have transported them overnight from parts [Music] unknown. Are these onie? These guys are cute. Wow, look at all these on. Master [Music] [Music] Shaku is an artist with autism. I saw this. Why did he start making pottery? Huh? His innate ability blossomed over time. Now he holds solo exhibitions and workshops. I think this is an important quality for the kind of artwork that Shuakun is doing. And I believe that when people who often view his condition as a negative see his work, it will change their mind and they can see it as a positive thing. Shuaku is protected by his father and perhaps by his benign demons [Music] too. On the northern edge of the peninsula lies the Kushku district. Kushu shrine was established in the year 889. I’m here at a Shinto shrine where I’m about to meet someone who knows all about a very mysterious festival that will soon be held here. Fore! Foreign! Foreign! During the festival, the spirit of Kebis will be channeled into a resident. And that person is now being selected. It’s Sunday Yuya. Jesus. [Music] [Music] [Music] It’s 5:30 in the morning right now. I’ve heard there’s some sort of ritual associated with the KB festival happening on the beach here this morning. [Music] In the days leading to the festival, an Okao or caretaker of the gods purifies his body and soul at dawn. [Music] The Oko makes daily offerings to a god called Jindo. [Music] Kunisaki is increasingly attracting visitors from overseas. Hello. You must be Dave. And you must be Paul. Indeed I am. Welcome to uh Kunisaki. Paul Christie is originally from the UK. Great to meet you. And this is my company. U please do come in and have a look. Oh, thank you. Wow, there sure are a lot of people working here. So, what’s everybody doing here? Well, we’re a tour company and my colleagues here are doing the logistics behind the tours. Paul’s company specializes in walking tours around Japan. [Music] Man, it sure is beautiful out here. It is, isn’t it? And this is a typical scene of Japan with the patty fields for the rice, the forests, which are very varied, and then the houses, which tend to be on the edges of the forest and the and the fields. [Music] Oh wow, it’s just over here. Yeah, I think it’s a suing summer. So, a water god. Originally, Kyaki Peninsula was had a problem with water because there the river is very short. They couldn’t keep them. So, what they did was build a lot of what they call tanik ponds um which was storing the water to then feed into the patty fields, not to people’s houses. Ah, what is this? It’s for growing shiakei mushrooms. So, this is a an oak and this is where we grow shiakei mushrooms. At this time of year, it’s a quiet season, so there’s not a lot happening. [Music] the first friend I made when I came to the village 22 years ago. So I’d like to you to Hello. This is the home of Wakisaku. Buddhism which is here resides very happily with Shinto which is here. Typical of sort of the Kunisaki religious environment. Our tours pass through here. the ones in Kunisaki pass it by Chan’s house and one day Etchan said hello aari a so it means come into the house and then ever since been part of the tur Yes. I think it’s very unusual in Japan for visitors, foreign visitors. So, it’s very special in our tours to be able to do this sort of thing with it. [Music] I moved here 22 years ago and found my place under the sun. I suppose the Kunisaki Peninsula is where I’ve really found my home and I don’t expect leaving it ever. [Music] David is heading to Himishima, an island with ties to the gods. Yu is a geologist who lives on this tiny island. Wow, such a beautiful view from here. It’s fantastic. to this car. Good job. [Music] [Music] Kuruma Ebie are a delicacy in sushi and tempura. Their farming is a huge industry on Himeima. [Music] This time I’m eating some raw kuruma abies. So sashimi. Good sushi shops in Tokyo. I found that the best places always use karuma ab from around here. A little bit of showyu. So sweet. Shioyaki is uh rolled in salt and then grilled. A lot of people peel off the shell, but you can also eat with the shell on. And today, this is very, very soft and delicious. I am really enjoying eating the bounty of Himeima’s Kuruma A. It’s fantastic. I’m so happy to be eating it. The day of the Kebis [Music] festival. The head priest prepares the mask of Kevis. A god from the continent, a fire god, a sea god. Legends abound, but Kebis’ origins are unknown. I’m here at the grounds of the Kushikusha Shrine where the Kesu Festival is about to begin. [Music] [Music] The shrine grounds really filling up with people here and in anticipation of the festival. And you can really feel the energy of people just excited for the fire festival to start. And The ritual to welcome Kebisuit gets underway. Sand appears uneasy. [Music] The head priest channels the spirit of Kebis into Sami. [Music] Kebis charges toward the fire. Men called Doba thwart him. [Music] [Applause] [Music] after some tustling. Kebis finally breaks through. [Music] The Toba take over, ruthlessly showering people with embers. [Music] Oh, get hurt. [Music] Being touched by the sparks is believed to ward off illness. [Music] What was your impression of the festival? Oh my goodness. It was it was excitement. It was [Laughter] unpredictability. The origins of the K Basu Festival are unknown and remain a mystery. I hope people will continue to attend this festival and support it for many years to come. Here in the Kunisaki Peninsula, the whisper of the wind, the scent of the forest have completely enveloped me. It’s like I’ve entered a world of wonder. It is a place where people coexist with nature, gods, and the Buddhas. A land where one can feel close to things [Music] unseen. Here the earth is filled with prayers of the people. The Kunisaki Peninsula is a place of timelessness, a very deep place. But I don’t think I can fully comprehend it with just one journey here. I really wish I could stay longer to enjoy it some more. Hope to see you [Music] soon. It’s about 90 minutes by air from Tokyo to Hoe airport. From there, take advantage of local buses and fairies to get around.
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Take a spiritual journey to Oita’s Kunisaki Peninsula, where temples, shrines, rituals and traditions have endured since ancient times.