ROUTIERS JAPONAIS : LES SAMOURAIS DU BITUME (2003)
The art of representation on print, the UKIYOE finds its place everywhere painting and the image is also exhibited on the road here the heavy goods vehicles are sometimes works of art describing the exploits of some glorious samurai [Music] Hasegawa Hitoshi decorated his truck with the effigy of ancient Samurai warriors effort loyalty tenacity their values are his this truck is mine it’s my whole life I bought it alone the company for The one I work for has nothing to do with it, I put all my
Savings into it, that’s for sure, anyone who doesn’t have the means will never be able to drive something like that, but for me the fact of having a decorated truck like this one it’s quite stupid but it helps me to continue driving Hiromi Tsunakawa maintains a very passionate relationship with his vehicle in
His own way he also wants to be a samurai of the asphalt his engine announces his passage the sound he lets out owes nothing to chance indicator lights brakes gear shift each function has its own melody the inspiration came from the video games on which he played a large part of his
Youth this truck is a bit like my toy it’s a dream as a child that I ‘m making a childhood dream come true unfortunately I don’t ride it all the time but every time I have the opportunity I’m really happy and proud [Music] to drive it For Hasegawa as for all truck decorators who make their truck a collector’s item, the fun is short -lived, there is no question of driving with your favorite vehicle to transport loads across the archipelago, the traveling masterpieces are fragile, their use is limited done with restraint
To earn a living Hasegawa therefore uses a second, more ordinary heavy truck that of the company his company truck as he himself calls it like a collector who leaves his car under a cover Hasegawa abandoned in a suburb of Tokyo its jewel to set off towards the north
Of the country a journey of 1400 km which will lead it to the island of Okkaido the legend recalls that the first Asian fishermen were born here today the northernmost island of the The Nipon archipelago is also the largest fish reserve in the
Country. Fishing represents an important sector of the Japanese economy and for truckers it is a boon. Domestic consumption and export of seafood require rapid transportation from the most important ports . more remote, it is on this route that Hasegawa chose to work [Music] the fish route guarantees him
Sufficient income to best decorate his favorite truck remaining in Toko but Hokkaido is also renowned for the rigor of these winters Hasegawa the knows well he was born here 50 years ago in winter when the conditions are too bad the highway is sometimes
Closed and in these cases we take national roads but then we can easily find ourselves stuck and it is sometimes chaos we can no longer work at all It is 10 a.m. Hasegawa reaches the place of its loading the small port of Habuta south of Okkaido lives to the rhythm of the arrivals of seafood and trucks during the summer local specialty is a shellfish “otategai” but between November and April local fishermen bring back
“tara” in their nets, a species particularly sought after in Japanese cuisine. A type of cod also consumed in Korea and in Asian communities in North America the wait can be long the slightest delay and Hasegawa loses money he thinks about his favorite truck and the next modifications he dreams of making to it I remember once I had to wait a whole day almost 24 hours the fish had not yet arrived at the port I had to wait until the next day without doing anything you know it’s fresh fish that we transport and it’s sacred here
The truckers are obliged to wait for the day’s arrival and whatever happens the wait is part of our work we are obliged to accept it Hasegawa has been waiting for 5 hours his goods finally arrive 13 tonnes of cod it must be delivered as quickly as possible because even transported
In refrigerated trucks the fish loses its value if the journey takes too long in Japan sashimi literally “fresh fish ” is an essential dish in the daily diet it is on every table each inhabitant consumes annually the equivalent of their own weight in fish 70 kg, 5 times more than in France
The catch of the day is carefully prepared and packaged for the long road that awaits him Hasegawa himself takes care of placing the 1250 crates of his precious [Applause] loading it is 8 p.m. the countdown can finally begin but the snow interferes with the [Applause] part 150 km separates Abuta of Akodate
Ferry pier for the main island of Honshu then remains 1200 km of asphalt to Tokyo a 24 hour journey if all goes well [Music] well It’s a real race against time I n I have no choice I have to deal with the weather the fresh fish must arrive on time but I can’t drive too fast on the snowy roads it can become dangerous [Music] [Music] obviously for safety I could
Put on chains but it’s not possible how to explain to you the one who puts on chains he passes for a beginner I would be too afraid that colleagues would see me putting on chains on the side of the road
Yeah I would be ashamed of that is a bit of a question of honor yes that’s a question [Music] Of honor the trucks crossed on the road give valuable information Hasegawa the Kietsumaru, the ferry he must take has finished unloading its batch of carriers boarding will begin any moment Only 150 trucks can be loaded on each crossing the company Hasegawa works for takes care to regularly reserve places for its drivers and places are expensive the company also takes care to reserve a cabin despite the short duration of the trip, a privilege which remains the prerogative of
Fish transporters. Hasegawa will be able to sleep during the 4 hours of the crossing outside the storm does not bode well for the future of the route the preparations for departure are longer than Scheduled for 3 a.m. the Kietsumaru finally sets sail on board it is a relief the sailors know well to what extent the fish truckers count on their punctuality it sometimes happens that we have to stay at the dock while waiting for a
Calm in winter there are often storms it can be very violent in the region particularly between the island of Okkaido and that of Honshu the air masses coming from Siberia engulf here they cause a sudden change in temperature and the wind can start to blow very strongly it blocks everyone
Boats and of course trucks before a short sleep the crossing and the opportunity for a few beers the moment of the trip where Hasegawa is allows alcohol when we are on the road we only talk to colleagues by radio when we transport fresh fish we rarely have time to
Stop during the trip and the ferry allows us to meet between Friends for those who do not have the privilege of a cabin everything is provided on board or almost the small room he rents in Tokyo is barely 8 square meters he only sleeps there about thirty times during the year the ferry cabin is a real luxury In the early morning the main island of Japan, Honshu is in sight the truckers will soon get back behind the wheel there are 1000 km left to reach the Japanese capital Hasegawa has one day he is expected at the large Tsukiji fish market where his cargo
Will be put up for sale as soon as it arrives [Applause] even if this truck looks nothing like the work of art on which he devotes all his savings Hasegawa couldn’t help but make a few small adjustments to it, I can say that I spend practically all my time at the truck
Almost 24 hours a day in addition with the transport of fresh fish the rhythms are such that I almost never even go to the company he almost never sees me this truck is my house not a second house no no my only house
When I finish my work I eat and sleep in my truck that’s pretty much it the only problem is that there is no bathroom since he left the Kietsumaru Hasegawa has already driven 6 hours the road conditions were good he even got a little ahead of schedule
And can afford a bathroom stop or rather “honsen” at the thermal springs arranged with which the archipelago abounds [Applause] [Music] for Hasegawa the honsen is a refinement but also a path towards dreams entirely built around trucks and the samurai painted on their sides [Music] [Applause] [Music]
The honsen precedes the usual meal at his friend Ideki’s place the place is particularly renowned for the freshness of these seafood products and the quality of its cuisine as tradition dictates each fillet is cut according to the type of fish
Ah the two of us have known each other since for a long time I don’t really know how long it’s been exactly but it must be 7 or 8 years at the moment with my job I don’t come often chef’s specialty: shrimp sushi Hasegawa’s favorite dish
Truck drivers like Hasegawa are important for us they are our main customers and above all they are the ones who deliver us the fish from Okkaido when the road conditions are too bad when the fishing boats can no longer go out to sea and the truckers are waiting for the arrivals
I’m stuck, no truck, no fresh fish and me without fresh fish it’s simple I close it has already happened to me you know Japan is an archipelago so whatever happens we eat fish since my childhood I always ate it and sushi I will eat it all my life
The stop lasted 2 hours now Hasegawa just has to follow the highway to reach [Music] Tokyo That’s my radar detector. It’s very practical, even essential. because I’ve already paid fines for speeding, and expensive ones can go up to €3,000. They’re not kidding about that. The funny thing is that I always get caught when I’m in the least hurry
In these in this case I’m distracted I don’t pay too much attention to my detector and then I accelerate and that’s when I get caught when I’m in a hurry I pay attention in 30 years of driving Hasegawa has never had a accident only a few breakdowns or punctures delayed his deliveries
Hasegawa only knows Tokyo through the interchanges and the main arteries as soon as he is finished with his merchandise he will find his decorated truck and leave the capital to reach his playground: tarmac where he will then be able to drive kilometers for his sole [Music] pleasure
In the space of an instant, his years on the road will then take on their full meaning in the simple driving of a heavy goods vehicle [Music] decorated with prints j I loaded late in Hokkaido but finally I arrived in Tokyo on time
I have no problems good the snow but it’s not much I even finished with less than half an hour in advance Hasegawa arrives in Tsukiji around midnight the activity of the largest fish market in the world has not yet really started hundreds of different species will be sold at
First light from all the islands of the archipelago but also of all the seas of the world it is really the transport which counts for the freshness moreover we cannot afford to be late the fish, even in a refrigerated truck, loses its value if the trip lasts too long
And buyers are very attentive to that, imagine if we are really late, do you realize the consequences if we miss the start of the auction? fortunately this rarely happened to me when the auction bell rang finally Hasegawa has already returned to the road the cod he transported will be sold 20 times the
Price paid to the fishermen of Abuta certain fish like the red ton reach record sums up to 2000 € per kilo [Music] [Music] after a short night Hasegawa will take advantage of his day off to find his decorated truck he well deserved
It it is in the warehouse of the painter Seikigushi that he left his vehicle the place is both a garage and a painting gallery Hasegawa plans to carry out a complete change of decoration but the big day has not yet arrived he needs to save a few thousand more Yen In the meantime he plans to enjoy a few moments of happiness when the mechanics want to obey him so he doesn’t want to start. Even elbow grease won’t do the trick ha I don’t understand what’s going on!
The painter Seikiguchi leaves his work for a few moments to put on the clothes of a mechanic; he has exchanged his brushes and spray paint for jumper cables, a less aesthetic but more effective task given the current situation, red is the least. It’s reversed you see. that’s it, it should work like that The efforts of the two men end up being crowned with success but Hasegawa never takes leave of his friend Seikiguchi without a few interested glances at the productions in progress a way of familiarizing himself with the colors and representations in vogue also a way of monitoring the choice of colleagues
Ah it’s pretty good it’s impressive there, on the left I wanted to give an impression of power yes that’s it that’s what that the guy wanted it’s very important to have a personalized truck, a truck of your own all truckers dream of one day having a painting of Seikiguchi
And when you have the chance to achieve it it’s really great what you see there these are two divinities which bring luck it is also a protection for us on the road we think that it protects us from accidents at the moment I am asked a lot of divinities like this
Perhaps for the protection that it provides and perhaps also because of current economic difficulties in particular. Seikiguchi’s works can reach 80,000 € for a complete cover of the truck despite the price, the workshop is never empty the artist, he always has just as much difficulty seeing his paintings leave him barely finished
Each time it’s the same thing, although it may be an order, when I see a truck leaving my workshop I have the impression that something is being taken from me, something that is very dear to me, you know, painting is my whole life
When I see Hasegawa or other truckers happy with their decorations, that makes me happy too I still have this strange feeling that the truck is a bit mine once I have painted it today Hasegawa will not leave with it new prints. the portraits of smaourais carried on its sides
Will continue to delight motorists who pass it on the roads for some time to come. Roads At nightfall, paintings like Hasegawa’s are quickly stolen by the light trucks as soon as he finishes his day’s work, Hiromi finds his life-size toy every week he goes to Chiba to a supermarket entirely dedicated to trucks, a veritable Alibaba cave for all truck drivers who, like him,
Make their vehicles look like those of manga comic book heroes [Music] Hisashi, the salesman, takes care regularly from Hiromi’s truck he is used each time he passes by today Hiromi is interested in the interior decoration of his cabin of the berth more precisely can I put the fabrics that I want?
Yes, can you choose them from all these samples, is there any choice there? yes there are even others but they cannot be put on all models you can also take the ceiling light that goes with Everything that directly or indirectly concerns trucks is sold in the Chiba store : accessories of all kinds, engine parts by shocks or even entire cabin. 18,000 items are spread out in the aisles used exclusively [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Music] by the truckers, I actually came to look for a flashing lamp
Hiromi has been thinking about changing it since he saw the model on a colleague’s truck and like a child eager to have the same toy as his friend’s at the first opportunity, he makes the detour to Chiba They all flash at the same time? at the same pace, right?
Yeah yeah that’s it. it’s pretty much the same but the part that lights up is more powerful. it is only the cover which is in dispute every week I pass here and even several times if I could I would pass every day I have already spent 1500 € for a single accessory
It was I think for a light strip…yes that’s it that day I broke down but in general I spend say a little more than a hundred euros obligatory passage after the store the adjacent workshop mechanics for adults, here we constantly assemble and dismantle these strange machines
In 8 years, at the rate of one visit per week, Hiromi has more than 400 visits Hisashi, the salesman, will take care of installing the purchases of the day he knows Hiromi’s truck well, he is the general contractor for the electrical decoration of the trucks it takes say 400 meters of cables
On Hiromi’s there is a total of 1km! for this type of decorated truck we normally use 2 batteries but on Hiromi’s we doubled the bet: 4 batteries! bulbs must be able to operate at maximum power and for as long as possible. Besides, that’s why we notice the most beautiful decorations
In truck gatherings, which are frequent here, the lights must be spectacular and surprising to be noticed, it must flash all night long, it’s that’s how we recognize the most beautiful trucks and in my opinion Hiromi’s is one of the most beautiful trucks in Tokyo
According to the rhythm of visits to Chiba, Hiromi’s truck has become a cockpit equipped with the very latest innovations technological do you see that? these are the switches which allow you to successively turn on all the ramps which are on the cabin all the ramps at the same time
These are other switches which are used to turn on other lights and then there are the brake lights and the relay which serves to animate and synchronize the bulbs with respect to each other. This is what gives movement to the lights on my truck
; finally, it is used for the lights on the roof of the cabin. do you see at the top? It’s true that it ends up making a lot of money but hey, I promise, it’s the last time. and then my truck you know it’s what I hold dearest in life [Music]
The decorations considerably weigh down the truck; they sometimes represent up to 30% of the initial weight ; vehicles like Hiromi’s thus find themselves outside the norm. their use is barely tolerated for personal purposes, banned professionally, much to Hiromi’s chagrin,
So he takes advantage of every moment of rest by traveling the streets of Tokyo at the wheel of his heavy goods vehicle before meeting up with other truckers in his usual haunt the “misokkasu” literally the refuge of the lost hello everyone, are you okay? Hi ! Hi ! well…the others started without you!
Yes I see that… can you give me a squeeze? Hey, did you see the time? We said 9 o’clock! Keiko runs this restaurant which has become a meeting place for truck drivers for around ten years. When they work, they are very alone
Here. They find an atmosphere that they like. I often chat with them . It has become a real meeting point. YOU. word of mouth worked and the place is now frequented by truckers. But I initially created it for businessmen and eventually it became a truck stop
On each visit, Hiromi and his friends order the traditional “monja”, a kind of cabbage omelette grilled on a plate heating you know it’s really a good place here I can relax a little in the evening the atmosphere is relaxed, above all the cuisine is family we eat well
Even if you come every day it’s not boring and then you know Keiko it’s is a bit like our mother to all of us in Japan the history of the road and the trucks are combined with pride if the train transports the passengers, the traffic of goods is ensured by the heavy
Goods vehicles which occupy a place in the economy but also in the hearts of all Japanese at the end of the 70s, a film pays tribute to them. broadcast at prime time, it takes up the saga of the old clans of truckers like the American unions, the Japanese drivers’ organizations divided up territories
, the membership of a trucker in a union was then signified by the decoration and the colors of his truck beware of those who did not respect a simple rule the paintwork of the heavy goods vehicle could not be seen on roads held by an enemy union the practice has disappeared
But the craze for decoration has remained a number of truckers like Hiromi they also readily admit that their passion was born after seeing this film ; large gatherings of decorated trucks have taken over every month; truckers’ clubs organize exhibitions
With the stated aim? prepare for the annual competition which will designate the most beautiful rolling works in the country Hiromi must go to the meeting of his club, the Utamaru a very appropriate name for decorated trucks Utamaru was one of the greatest masters of the Japanese school of printmaking [Applause]
Of course I’m happy to be able to drive my decorated truck I can’t do it every day and big holidays like today allow me to show it to others careful On the way, Hiromi contacts a few colleagues who have already arrived on site. He wants to check that his large truck
Will be able to pass through the entrance to the parking lot without damage. Do you think my truck will pass? and did you see another one of the same kind that managed to get in? No ? ah you worry me there! Okay, we’ll see you later,
The gathering takes place in the warehouses of a large Japanese brewery as planned, Hiromi’s entry is a delicate operation, you have to be careful to the millimeter [Music] almost 400 trucks responded to the invitation from the Utamaro club. the afternoon is reserved for truckers and their families
Fair, exchange of information on the latest news concerning decorative objects the atmosphere is relaxing the public will only join the party this evening [Music] I’m happy! look, we can even start grilling the meat! Thank you all for coming. I’m only going to tell you one thing,
Keep working as you do so that in the months to come there will be more of us! Tamura Hiroshi, the president of the club, also works on the fish route having just returned from Okkaido, he barely had time to change trucks. What I love above all is organizing parties like these
We get together and drink a little. this festival is very important the trucks come from everywhere, from Hokkaido to Okinawa and I am very proud to make this huge mechanical toy, canvas by the painter Sekiguchi but also other Japanese artists everything is ready for the opening of the festivities
Hasegawa, him also a member of the Utamaru, joins the party a few hours late his truck has caused him some problems again but he arrives in time to attend the light exhibition, the first highlight of the party more than 3000 fans of tinsel and chrome came to admire up close
What they usually only see from afar, the time of a crossing on the road Hasegawa can display his paintings with pleasure [Music] Hiromi too. it’s clear, his truck is an eye-catcher and constitutes one of the attractions of the evening,
A good test in view of the annual gathering which will be held in 6 months Hiromi is the favorite for the unofficial title of the most beautiful truck Utamaru [Music ] big parties like that are rarely done for me it’s a perfect opportunity to show off my truck decorated with these new accessories
And it also makes me happy that the people who come admire the decorations and ask me questions Highlight of the show, the parade which marks the end of the party Hiromi’s exit is just as perilous as her entrance [Applause] the rain has started to fall and in a few hours the truckers will have resumed their work after having left their work of art in the garage [Music] the capital of the Empire of the Rising Sun has returned to normal life every day, 600,000 trucks crisscross the city taking over from those who transported their goods from all over the world. Hiromi archipelago went to the Tsukiji fish auction
He will distribute the fish transported by Hasegawa but also other seafood products more than fifty deliveries per day provide him with a monthly salary of €2000 to which are added end of year bonuses it’s true that I would love to be able to work with my decorated truck
But it’s not possible! no no ! it’s sacred it’s my whole life if it’s damaged, I’m nothing anymore [Music]Hasegawa, Hiromi and all the Japanese truckers have temporarily abandoned their palace of light or their traveling prints at the wheel of more ordinary truck they have resumed their comings and goings between Hokkaido, Honshu, Kyushu and Ozumi, the lands of the archipelago they will drive for kilometers to earn their living
Linchpins essential to the economic activity of an entire country aesthetes, handymen or big children, they can’t wait to find their favorite truck to stay in the eyes of the Japanese, the asphalt lovers
Note : J’avais enregistré le programme original en 2003 mais le fichier est devenu corrompu. Heureusement j’ai récupéré en 2010 cet enregistrement fait par une autre personne qui permet à ce documentaire de ne pas sombrer dans l’oubli.
Décidément, les japonais ne font rien comme tout le monde. Pour preuve, leurs routiers ne se contentent pas de livrer leurs marchandises dans de “simples” camions. Non, ils ont développés toute une culture du tunning autour de leur maison roulante.
Au Japon, on appelle ça DEKOTORA, abréviation de DECORATION TRUCK. Une vieille pratique qui remonte aux années 1970, une époque où les clans de camionneurs défendaient leur territoire et se bastonnaient joyeusement à l’occasion…
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