Échappées belles – Japon, les surprises de Tokyo

Échappées belles – Japon, les surprises de Tokyo

… -Arigato. Wow ! There are people here! … Amazing. Amazing ! … Hello, friends. “Konnichiwa”, as they say here. I just flew 14 hours, there is an 8 hour time difference. It must be 4 a.m. in France, and I have just arrived in Tokyo. Welcome to the most populated city in the world. … Excuse me… … -Near Ginza station. -Ginza? -Ginza. -It’s here. -Over there? -No, this way. -All right. -This way. -THANKS. They are pretty, your little dogs. Good day ! … Hello, Mrs. Koko. -Good morning. -How are you ? -Nice to meet you. -Thank you for meeting me here. This theater is an image that I have of Japan and Tokyo, this old construction in the middle of these modern buildings. I feel like it’s unique to this city and this country. -It is a historic district in the center of Tokyo. Between the war and the earthquakes, a lot of things were lost. Kabukiza theater seeks to maintain its authenticity. It is an emblematic place for the Japanese. -I’m delighted to have found you. I was able to do it thanks to this paper. I want to decode how Japanese society and human relationships work. For us, French, Japan is another world. It’s a society far from us. And you, with cooking, will be able to pass that on to me. -I will show you amazing places so that you can feel this country in your body. -It’s going to be an amazing and extraordinary journey. So here we go! … -In Japan, the word “surprise” takes on its full meaning. -Some neighborhoods go fast, and others are slower. Tokyo is a mix of both. -Ismaël Khelifa discovers a different Tokyo… -In my neighborhood, there is excitement. This garden is exceptional. When I come here, I can breathe. -Man sculpts the landscape to get closer to the forms of nature. -Which has its own codes. -Noodles, meat and egg all have a life. It means I’m taking this life. So when the Japanese say “itadakimasu”, they take this life. -Itadakimasu. -And in the city of Nikko… -Ishmael, here we are at the sanctuary of Nikko. -And there, with the explosion of fall colors, my trip really takes on its full meaning. I wanted to see that. -Japan takes on a completely different face. -When I go diving elsewhere, I enjoy it. But when I come back here, to Hachijo-jima, each time, I rediscover the beauty of the sea, and I tell myself that this is indeed my home. -WELCOME TO JAPAN! … -Is Tokyo pleasant to live in? -It’s not always easy, but it’s a dynamic city in constant motion. We don’t get bored there. -I have the impression that it is a city that continues to grow. -I agree. I actually have a funny app on this subject. You can travel in time through the map. And scroll the map over the centuries. -Ah yes, okay. So, it’s very clear. The city has grown so much that it has extended onto the sea. So there are places where you walk on the sea. -Yes, many areas have been built on the water. Kawaii… -What does “kawaii” mean? -Cute. -It was “kawaii” to see you with that cat. -Ah, ah, ah…! -Oh yeah, Koko. -You’re popular. -You just have to know how to do it. … The vibe of this city at night seems crazier than during the day. … Your kimono is magnificent. I knew you’d change, but it’s sumptuous. -I love kimonos. My mother often wore them too. So I grew up with it. The kimono adapts to the seasons, whether through the complexity of the sewing or the choice of fabric. It’s like Japanese cuisine, there are lots of choices. -There are seasonal kimonos, just as there are seasonal fruits and vegetables. It suits you very well. -We have arrived. -It’s nice here. -There are people. -We are expected. -And we welcome two new customers. Welcome ! -Konnichiwa. Konnichiwa. It’s great. Do you come often? -From time to time. This restaurant is so popular that there isn’t always room. -The details here are astonishing for a foreigner like me. All these people lined up. Baseball on TV. It is the Japanese national sport. It’s truly a change of scenery. -Please. -What would you like ? -We’ll have an oden of boiled radishes in sauce and fried soybeans. And this beer. -A drink? -Two. -How do you read the map? -Vertically. -Me, naturally, I would have taken it like that. But you take it that way, because you read from top to bottom. -This is traditional writing in Japan. Here they kept it like that. Campai! -Kampai! Thank you so much. -THANKS. It’s oden, the Japanese stew. We put vegetables, eggs and soya to boil in a pot. -Perfect. -Perfect. -Japan is an island. Has the country remained closed to foreigners for a long time? When did you open up to the world? -During the Edo era, from 1600 to 1868, Japan was closed, then we entered the Meiji era. The country has opened up. Western and American cultures arrived like an avalanche. -The opening is recent. The 19th, on the scale of History, is yesterday. … You first. -Hello, how are you ? -Konnichiwa. -Let me introduce you to Ishmaël. -It’s me who will sing with you, but only in French. Come on ! She sings in Japanese. … -I am amazed to see people of all ages. -We meet up with people of all generations to sing. It’s a moment of communication around music. -It’s great. I’m having a great time. It’s great! -It’s your turn to sing. -Come on ! … Last night, two strangers, and this morning, on the avenue, two lovers stunned by the long night. And from the Star to the Concord, an orchestra of a thousand strings, all the birds of dawn sing love. At the Champs-Elysées. -AT THE CHAMPS-ELYSEES. -In the sun, in the rain, at noon or at midnight, there is everything you want on the Champs-Elysées. Arigato. -Thank you so much. -With 37 million inhabitants, Greater Tokyo is the most populous city in the world. One district of Tokyo is equivalent to ten districts of Paris. A gigantism that is particularly palpable during office hours. Terui-san, with his fitted suit and his briefcase, is the archetype of the salaryman, these executives, especially male, particularly devoted to their work. -For me, a salaryman is an employee in a company. He works to ensure that the company does well and that this contributes to the development of society. -Terui-san is a specialist in digital communication. This morning, he has a meeting with his clients, chocolatiers. -Here is our new product: it is a chocolate with dried fruits produced in Ecuador. Today I’m seeing Terui-san to discuss the new range we’re launching and to get his opinion on these new products. -For all their online digital media , we discuss strategies and methods to reach as many people as possible. -Terui-san grew up in Saitama, a town of a million souls, in the suburbs of Tokyo. The frenzy of the capital does not scare him. -There are neighborhoods that go quickly, and others more slowly. This city is a mix of both. The most vibrant neighborhoods are stimulating and fun. Quieter neighborhoods allow you to refocus and have time for yourself. These are calming environments. -A sprawling and peaceful megacity at the same time, a feeling that Anna knows well. Franco-Japanese, she lives in the district of Shibuya, known for its pedestrian crossing, less for its serenity. -Tokyo is a city with buildings, so it’s impressive. But when you go to the suburbs, you can see it here, there’s no one. There, on the Crossing, you have thousands of people. And there, you can walk around, you have grandpas, grandmas, little cafes that are open. Life here is peaceful. We don’t hear the noise. -For the young woman, the city of Tokyo is full of surprises. -(Konnichiwa.) In Japan, the second-hand market is mega developed, ten times more than in France. You have thrift stores in every suburb. Neighborhoods are dedicated to thrift shopping. In Koenji or Shimokitazawa, there are hundreds of second-hand clothes. -La Lille has become a content creator. She offers her subscribers the opportunity to discover Japan differently. *-If you are in Tokyo, I recommend this restaurant. *Every day, I share activities to do in Japan. *See you soon. I share good addresses every day. I offer people who subscribe to my accounts a chance to discover another Tokyo through the eyes of someone who lives there. -Travel, shopping and favorites, Anna makes her life a travel guide. -I had planned to stay for a year, and in the end, after two years, I am still here, and my professional and life projects make me want to stay here. I think I’ll be here for quite a while. -The size of Tokyo has pushed the countryside far away. But for its inhabitants, there are places in the city to enjoy a bowl of nature: Japanese gardens. -In my neighborhood, it’s bustling. This garden is exceptional. When I come here, I can breathe. -In the middle of the buildings, the Hama-Rikyu garden is known for its pine trees. -I remove pieces that alter the overall shape of the tree. The branches are too bushy. And then I remove the thorns from last year. These are the thorns of the year. Here, it’s the old ones. I remove those and only keep those from the year. -By thinning the tree, Koichi Nemoto allows the sun to access the thorns of the year, but it also has an aesthetic aim. By sculpting the pines, he harmonizes them, he organizes nature. -Man sculpts the landscape to get closer to the forms of nature. -Created in the 17th century as the hunting reserve of the Tokugawa dynasty, the Hama-Rikyu garden is today a green lung accessible to the inhabitants of Tokyo. … -What time does the auction start in this market? -For bluefin tuna, at 5:30 a.m. -I cursed you a little this morning when I got up at 4 a.m. -I’ve been up since 3:30. -Okay, then I bow. Wow, impressive! -It smells like fish. -When you arrive here, there is no doubt, you are at the fish market. -The Toyosu market is the largest in Japan. Here, we find fish from Japan, but also from all over the world. -It is an important place for the Japanese fishing sector, which is a big economic sector. -Yes, because Japanese cuisine rhymes with fish. Every day, in our homes, we learn to respect food. In fish, we eat everything: the head, the bones, the skin. -Do you come here often? -Yes, as a culinary specialist. I teach and create recipes for newspapers or websites. So I often need fish. I have always frequented this market. Bell ringing. Comments in Japanese. … -What’s going on? -These are the auctions. They talk numbers with their fingers. It’s happening so fast that even I don’t understand. -And is your insulated bag for buying tuna? Are we going to take on a huge tuna? -Tuna does not fit in it. … -Be careful, be careful. Sorry, excuse me. There are people everywhere, you have to be careful. -Attention. … -Konnichiwa. Oh yeah! -I call these tiger tail shrimp the rainbows of the sea. I am spellbound by their beauty. I’ll take eight for you to take home. … -THANKS. … -It’s me, 10 years younger. … -It’s nice to see him work. What expertise! -This is professional know-how. It’s part of Japanese culture. Each time, he wipes the knife, the tray and the tuna. This way, we always maintain cleanliness. -It’s impressive to see you work. Your gestures are precise. Is it seen as an art to take care of fish like that? -I don’t think so. -I think so. -But no, I’m just a simple craftsman. In Tokyo, they use this long knife. But you can also use even longer ones. -Whoa! Ouch ouch ouch! Is that for pole vaulting? -Oh no! We cut like this. -Mind-blowing! -There are three of us using these big knives to cut a 200 to 300kg tuna. One who holds the fish, one who cuts it, and a third who guides the point. It’s technical. The biggest tuna we had weighed 460kg. -1kg of tuna, what price can it reach? -It’s 215 euros. … -That fascinates me. Little kids playing baseball. In France, it would undoubtedly be little footballers or little rugby players. Baseball is the national sport in Japan. -Yes, there are baseball leagues for children. Each district has its team. It’s a very popular sport here. … This is where the Ramen Festival takes place. -Don’t forget to collect your ramen tickets. … -What’s going on here? It’s a party! -It’s an event that brings together various ramen brands. We walk around and taste. -I trust you. -Good morning. -Konnichiwa. -Two ramens, please, with extra marinated egg each. Did you add chicken? -Yes, carcasses and wings. -So, a broth with pork bones and soy sauce. -It makes you want it. I’m happy to be here. -The egg ramen is ready. -Thank you so much. He sings in Japanese. … -Whoa! Let’s see that. -Do you know “itadakimasu”? -No. -Noodles, meat, and egg all have a life. It means I’m taking this life. So when the Japanese say “itadakimasu”, they take this life. -Itadakimasu. Come on, let’s go! … -Tremendous ! It’s good. The noodles are rubbery. It mixes with the broth which has a soy taste and is a little salty. It’s extremely good. It’s simple and refined. -I have it for you? -THANKS. -No worries. This way. -Itadakimasu. -Itadakimasu. … -The visitor cannot miss the immoderate taste of the Japanese for discipline. Pedestrians never challenge the green man. -That’s how it is. This is the rule and it is also the law. -On the other side of the wheel, drivers are not left out. Japanese motorists are champions of correction. -We don’t honk. We don’t drive too fast. We just honk our horn when, on a road, we cannot pass each other and the other lets us pass. This is the exception. We honk the horn lightly to thank him. -This mixture of politeness, courtesy and respect for codes is “reigi”, a fundamental notion, because by orchestrating civility between individuals, it contributes to the harmony of society. Ms. Matsuda is an expert in this reigi. Her job: good manners trainer. -If you want, we will spend 90 minutes together. There are three types of greetings. Eshaku. You’ve probably heard the expression before. To make an eshaku is to make a light greeting. We start from a straight posture and tilt 15 degrees. Please accept my greetings. We stop and go up slowly. -The bow greeting, o-jigi, is body language. The greater the degree of inclination , the more formal it is. -In profile, this is what it looks like. There, I’m roughly at 15 degrees, 30, 45, 60. We tilt, we stop, and we slowly go back up. Magnificent, it’s very beautiful. Many Japanese people learned these manners from their parents at home. Not everyone was so lucky. When they reach adulthood, some want to learn again or feel the need to do so. These are the kind of people who come to visit me. -Some disciples enroll in this course with a goal: a professional goal, a personal event, such as a wedding, or to be more comfortable in society. -The paper bag was left lying around outside. It has been in contact with dust and dirt. And so, when you offer something, you should never give the bag, it’s a package. I take out the gift, hold it and push it towards the person I’m giving it to. A first short movement, then a second longer one to create dynamics. One short, one long. Like that. -In general, manners classes in Japan focus only on the negative. Not to offend your interlocutor. But this teacher teaches us to trust in our benevolence and to act in a good way. And then when I see her so beautiful, I have the impression that she will transmit a little of her elegance to us. Comments in Japanese. -Not experienced as a constraint, these codes are rather seen as a way of sublimating life, of making it tastier by giving it more distinction. If there is a ritual where codification is synonymous with refinement, it is that of the tea ceremony. From the preparations, every detail is thought out. -It’s all about aesthetics. For example, I don’t arrange these cakes in a square. That would be too weird. -This afternoon, Mrs. Shibata invited some friends over for tea. At the entrance, they do not forget to remove their shoes and store them carefully in the genkan, the dedicated vestibule, before stepping onto the tatami. The ceremony can begin. -One person at a time enters the room. Then, the most important element of the piece is the print. We must therefore start by going to appreciate the print, then we move on, we admire the flowers, then we come to observe the pot, and finally, we can come and sit in our place. -Once all the guests are gathered, Ms. Shibata enters the scene and begins the extremely codified preparation of the drink. A ritual that may seem immutable, but only at first glance. -For example, the flowers are Japanese flowers, but I could replace them with Western flowers or pastries. These pastries are Japanese, but I can replace them with chocolate. We can allow ourselves eccentricities, even if there are a certain number of rules that must be respected. -Simplicity and formalism are at the heart of the tea ceremony which invites you to savor the present moment. -Ah, Maëva. Here, people say “Ah”, before speaking to each other. -Yes, to announce that we are arriving. -Are we kissing each other? -Yes. -Are you in a manga? -I was reading this manga. -Which way do you read it? -You open it from this side, and then you read in that direction. -It’s your universe, the manga. -Yes, I translate the mangas. I was a fan of it, and I started learning Japanese on my own. And after high school, I came to live in Japan. And I’m still here. It’s always something I like. -Is this neighborhood Akihabara? -Yes. -Is this the manga capital? -Yes, it’s the “otaku” capital. “Otaku” is the name given to manga or anime enthusiasts. … *… … -We’re going to go to a gachapon store. These are the balls containing figurines that we have in a machine. -What are you looking for? -Mostly Pokémon, but I also like miniatures, small computers or school supplies, pasta sauce. -How old are you ? -Me ? It’s not a question of age. -I see that. There is a pot with dogs. -They love animals in different situations. -There is a film crew. And there, you have the adrenaline rushing over what you are going to recover? -Yes. Ideally, I’d like this one. -If you don’t like it, will you do it again? -If I don’t like it, I’ll give it to you. -Thank you, nice. You can open your eyes. -Oh… So good, I was sure of it! I’m so happy. -What are you going to do with it? -I’ll put it on my shelf. -I made your day. -Ah yes, I’m so happy. … -I love this idea of ​​finding a temple that pops up in the middle of nowhere. -Yes, the lively city and, suddenly, a quiet place. When you pass through the doors, you must bow to greet the gods of the temple. … -Gorgeous ! It fits well into urban architecture. It’s very strong to have achieved this. -So there we have the emas. These are these small wooden boards that you buy at the temple to write a wish on. We hang it here and hope it comes true. Here, we clearly see the otaku side of Akihabara with all the drawings. -The culture of this district has been imbued in this temple. -And there you can buy amulets. The particularity here is that we even have one to protect the data. -Data from your smartphone, from your social networks? -So. -What is that? Oh yes, it looks like a printed circuit with a SIM card. -There you go, she’s very cute. So, there is a bit of something for everything: for animals, for health, for studies. -Do you have any too? -Yes, I have. -What are you protecting, your mangas? -No, it’s more a general one, for happiness in general. … -Um… -Do you like it? -It’s not bad. … -We’ll go that way. -Wow! What is this thing? *Video game music and noises made by players. Noise madness here! -We don’t get along anymore. -Look at this. -Yes, the speed of movements. -He definitely plays with gloves. -It slides better and doesn’t hurt your fingers. -Oh my! -If it’s a blue circle, you type there, red circle there, big blue circle, like that, big red circle, like that. -We don’t get along here. -No. Ah… *… -It’s red there. *… Oh my! -It was sport, there. -I’m exhausted. Who won? You put a big sheet metal on me. -Did you like it? -Yes. Well done. We’re getting into the game, all the same. -Look at this stuffed animal. -She makes you dream! -I think it’s cute. -Okay, fine. What is it about this manga culture that touches you so much? -I find this universe cute. I love these little things. And it affects the youngest and the oldest. Age doesn’t stop you from loving. -Do you think you’ll stay here long? -Yes, maybe always. -Thank you for introducing me to all this. I would never have come there alone. -Glad you discovered that. -Thank you so much. … I’ll show you my hotel. We call it a “capsule hotel”. You will understand. … This is my room, look. … Good night, friends! … -Less than 300km south of Tokyo, the island of Hachijo-jima is administratively dependent on the Japanese capital. However, it’s hard to be more different. An otherness that makes this island a destination for city dwellers looking for a change of scenery. -I live in Tokyo. It’s very strange, because here, technically, we’re in Tokyo, but it’s an island. We are surrounded by greenery. I feel my stress diminishing in this atmosphere. -Most visitors who come here only stay for a few days. But for others, Hachijo-jima proves to be more than just a stopover. -Good morning. Enter. -I’m going to put my things down. -32 years ago, Harumi left Tokyo to pursue her passion on the island. -I was employed in a company when I started diving recreationally. I loved it and looked for a solution to dive more. Ultimately, I ended up making it my career. -Lush vegetation flourishes fully on this volcanic soil. Not to mention the Kuroshio, a warm sea current which washes the coasts of Hachijo-jima and provides the island with a renowned tropical microclimate. -Here, we are an hour by plane from Tokyo. Thanks to the Kuroshio sea current, the sea is transparent and there are many fish. -Here you can dive all year round. The water temperature varies little: 29 degrees in summer, 19 in winter. These waters are home to a cohort of varied and surprising species, but the real star is the green turtle. This incredible playground seduced Harumi. -Initially, I thought I would live here for three years. During this time, I sometimes wanted to go home. And then the customers, and especially the friends of the island, were very kind to me. We helped each other more and more, and I saw the birth of this feeling of wanting to stay here. When I go diving elsewhere, I enjoy it, but when I come back here, on Hachijo-jima, I rediscover the beauty of the sea and I tell myself that this is my home. -Inland, the mild climate also offers remarkable possibilities. Satoshi was born on the island, like many of his ancestors. Although most of them were fishermen, his father chose to work the land, but it was Satoshi who decided to launch into original production. -Size matters. When it’s smaller than this size, I don’t harvest. About fifteen years ago, I was looking for a new product to grow. I went to an experimental field. I tasted all kinds of lemons, I was able to compare them, but this is the one I preferred. That’s how I started growing it. -Satoshi markets part of its production directly on the island, but most of its lemons travel to Tokyo. -I once tried to live there, but quickly returned. When I was young, Tokyo was my dream, but in the end, I like it on my island. -At nightfall, the island offers its warmest face. -This is the lemon picked today. -For several centuries, the inhabitants of the island have been known for their love of the traditional drum. A drum which has the particularity of being played by two people. One creates the rhythm while the other improvises around it. -It’s based on improvisation, so it’s difficult to teach. Afterwards, the musician must add his personal touch. That’s what’s difficult and frustrating, but that’s also what gives our drum its charm. It is all the more important for me to pass it on to young people. -From 7 p.m. to 8 p.m., it is the hour dedicated to children and transmission. Then the little ones go to bed and the adults continue the evening. -Taiko livens up evenings where we have a drink. It’s a bit like karaoke, everyone can participate, play or just listen. -When the sound of the drums resonates, it testifies to the joy of being together among the inhabitants of Hachijo-jima. Drum. … -Konnichiwa. Good morning. -Welcome to Nikko. Here, you will be able to appreciate the mountains and magnificent nature. -It’s quite a change of atmosphere. It’s calmer, there are the mountains. -I was born in Nikko, but it was by becoming a guide that I really rediscovered its beauty. -I can’t wait to see this. Here we go ? -Let’s go! -What do you like about this city ? -That’s it. -That’s what you like, you’re really attached to this mountain. -Attention. The red light. -Me, it’s the French way: I’ll pass. But I love this. What I like about this trip is that the Japanese have other ways of doing things. In France, you would have looked to the right, to the left, and you would have passed. Hello, gentlemen. What are all these people doing ? -These employees of a company take time out of their working hours to clean up the city. This is often done in Japan. -That too is like not crossing on red, I’ve never seen that in France. -Now that you tell me, it seems typically Japanese to me. -There are no trash cans anywhere, that surprises me. -You’re right. We take our waste back to the hotel or home. That’s how it is. -That, you see, is a great discovery. -This bridge is the starting point of Nikko’s story. A legend says that the bridge was built by a deity. -What a setting! -Today, there is a wedding, and the bride and groom are going to cross this bridge. The divinity of Nikko brings couples together. She encourages love. That’s why we have weddings here. -You did it on purpose! -It’s really by chance. -Are we approaching the bride and groom? … Come on, let’s see them. Konnichiwa. Congratulations, well done! Gorgeous ! Was it a dream to get married on this bridge? -Yes, it is a historic place and it is symbolic to get married here. We were very keen on it. This day will remain in our memories. -In France, at weddings, we say: “Long live the bride and groom!”, and we applaud. -Arigato. … -As soon as you move away from the road, the atmosphere changes radically. -And the higher we go, the closer we get to the gods. -Wow! Amazing ! … -Ishmaël, here we are at the Nikko sanctuary. … Comments in Japanese. -Is there a special way to greet a monk? -If there was a typical way, it would be to fold your hands and bow. This is how you greet a monk. -Konnichiwa. Thank you for welcoming us here. It’s extraordinary to be there. Do you pray in this temple all day? Do you live on this sanctuary? -I live in town. I come here to work, and in the evening I come home. I’ll show you the inside. -What are people doing there? -If you have pain or want to treat your knees or shoulders, rub this area. -Wow! It’s impressive. Very big. -You see? The Buddha looks at us. -Why does he have to look us in the eye? What does that mean? -For him to be our guide in life, we must pray while looking into his eyes. -The statues are more than 7m high. -It’s huge! -My pleasure. … -I had not measured the size of the place. For me, there was a big temple, but they are everywhere. -Here, on the sanctuary, there are more than 103 buildings, including housing for monks. … We’re going to pray together, are you ready? We bow twice. We clap our hands twice. We bow once again. … Let’s go to a cafe I like. -Good idea. After you, go ahead. It’s great here. -I took you here to taste Nikko’s natural shaved ice. I recommend Tochigi strawberry syrup to flavor it. It’s excellent. -We’ll try that. “Naturally frozen”, meaning it is taken from the mountains? -We cut the ice in a high-altitude lake and keep it until summer. This is why we say that this ice cream is natural. … -Is it for me? I’ve never seen that. Hmm… It’s okay. It melts in your mouth and the taste of the syrup remains which is delicious. -Even for us, this natural ice cream is exceptional. It is enjoyed on special occasions. -Amazing ! Hmm… Thanks. You made me have an awesome day. -We were very lucky. I had a great day, too. -It’s cold. -At the Mizusashi intersection, turn left then first right. On the main artery, you will find us. We are waiting for you. -The Nikko region is known for another culinary specialty: soba pasta. These thin buckwheat noodles are served in restaurants dedicated to this dish: sobayas. -This dish is called kake soba, with fish paste. -To make good soba, cooking is essential. 1mn30 in boiling water before plunging them into cold water. -In soba, texture is very important. You need to rinse them well with water to remove the sticky side of the starch. -The recipe for success. Every lunchtime, around a hundred people come to enjoy this pasta with its slight hazelnut flavor. -We already came 15 days ago, but I wanted to eat soba again, so we came back. -It is a typical Japanese dish. The scent and then the texture. -At the table, the Japanese are divided into two categories: fans of udon, wheat pasta, and those who only swear by soba. -It’s lighter than Italian pasta. At the company where I worked, older colleagues ate it for lunch every day. They couldn’t do without it. I think it is one of the essential dishes for Japanese people. -There are dozens of soba restaurants around Nikko. If the region has made buckwheat pasta a specialty, it owes it largely to its particular territory. Hiroshi Yagasiwa and his wife are farmers. Their 40 hectares mainly grow rice. And on their non-irrigated plots, they grow these pretty white flowers. -Indeed, this one is very beautiful. But this one is not yet ripe. This is a buckwheat endemic to the Nikko region. It has been cultivated for a long time. It is a native variety. This is an autumn buckwheat. It is sown at the end of August and harvested at the beginning of November. This will be harvested in three weeks. -Buckwheat has the reputation of being an undemanding plant that adapts to harsh soils or harsh climates. -As you can see, we are bordered by a mountain range, so there are significant temperature variations. It is this harsh climate that gives our buckwheat its taste. -From the field to the plate, there is only one step. But a few steps are required to turn the seeds into tasty pastes. In his restaurant, Takatoshi Shibata has a motto: well ground, well made, well cooked. -You must add the water gradually to avoid lumps. Dosing the water is difficult; you have to add it little by little. -No robot, no rolling mill either to roll out the dough. His quest for perfection is done with his bare hands. -The dough must be two or three millimeters. The important thing is the feeling. By working by hand, I can more easily control the water dosages. And by spreading manually, I bring my energy, that’s what gives them their good taste. This is why I prefer to work by hand. -He has cultivated this know-how since a young age. He always knew he would be a pastier. -It was my grandfather who opened this restaurant, and I took over the family business. It happened naturally. -Every morning, after preparing the pasta that he will serve for lunch, Takatoshi has a ritual before receiving his customers: he thanks the spirits. -I make offerings at the Shinto altar. I’m grateful, grateful to be alive, to be here, to have my restaurant, and to be able to do the work that I do every day. … -It’s so much fun! Are you okay, Morita-san? Are there many lakes in the area? -There are many lakes in Japan, but high altitude lakes like this are very rare. -Hop there, we’re going to hit each other. Hello, Morita-san. It’s not easy. We learn, we start. But here, I’m having a fabulous time. I love the sunlight, all the colors of autumn in the trees, it shines. It’s a damn beautiful moment. -This lake has a perimeter of 25km, and you can observe that on this part, to the west, there is no construction. Nature has been preserved. -For people who live in these regions, is this transition to autumn colors, an important moment for the Japanese, more important? -In autumn, seeing these landscapes of red leaves is a moment that we all wait for. The landscape of red leaves, the momiji, indicates the transition from summer to winter. … -Who introduced you to this love of nature? Did you learn to love the outdoors in your family? -He’s my father. He loved planting trees in the garden. It was he who taught me to love nature. I even made it my job. … -Ah… It’s cool! … How beautiful it is here! There you go, Morita-san. Hop there! How can I not get my feet wet? Well, I’m getting my feet wet. So. It was cool! Look how beautiful that is. I’ve been tapping you on the shoulder since I met you. In France, we are tactile, but in Japan, is that OK? -In Japan, it’s not done too much, but I take it as a mark of friendship. It doesn’t bother me . Around us, there are mountain maples, the emblematic tree of the forests surrounding the lake. You can see red, yellow or golden leaves , but it’s all the same species: maple. -Okay, shall we go? Come on ! … -There is Mount Fuji. It is the highest mountain in Japan, measuring 3,776 meters. -It’s legendary to see Mount Fuji. Amazing ! -Its perfect triangular shape, visible from several angles, is something sacred to the Japanese. -Everything is always connected to spirituality. -Here, each leaf, each tree, is inhabited by a divinity. -This is what I find powerful. … Arigato gozaimasu. There are people here! -I’m taking you to a beautiful viewpoint, and it attracts people. … -There are a lot of us on this small platform, but it’s very cool, we can speak quietly. On the way, we let each other pass. Honestly, it’s super touching. -Japan is a small country, and even within the country, there is only a small flat area where you can live. We must therefore respect each other. -We feel good when we walk in Japan. … -This mountain is triangular like Mount Fuji. How were these shapes created? -You are right, like Mount Fuji, they are volcanoes. The eruptions have shaped this landscape: the lake, the waterfall, the valleys. -And there, with the explosion of fall colors, my trip takes on its full meaning. I wanted to see this kind of image. … -Do you like the bath? -It feels good, it relaxes. My blood rushes to my head. -The volcanoes heat this water to more than 40 degrees and offer us this gift of nature. Are you starting to feel hot? -Yes, I’m very hot. -This water is powerful. She is charged with energy. You must not stay too long. -I confirm it to you, we will get out as quickly as possible. Thank you, Morita-san. -THANKS. I hope that you will transmit the desire to discover the nature and history of my country. … -Before, there wasn’t this tree here, it was better. Earlier, I failed to take the branch here. -Every beginning of autumn, it’s the same ritual: Jiro, a photographer, finds Kinya. Together, they search for the most beautiful shades that nature can offer. -The special thing here is the leaves that are there, the azaleas. They will all turn red. There, it’s the gradient from red to green that is beautiful. -The quest for autumn colors is a social phenomenon here. There is even a name for this practice: momijigari. -“Momiji” means red leaf. “Gari” means hunting, going into nature, into wild spaces. So momijigari means going to take photos of the red leaves or just going to see them. -In the 25 years he has been a professional photographer, Jiro has never missed a momijigari and he knows the tricks. -In this place, the leaves turn red more quickly. There is more red. -It is the maples which give the reddest hues. But the ginkgoes, the Japanese rowan trees or the birches and their gradient of yellows contribute to the beauty of the picture. A show awaited every year. -The Japanese look forward to momiji. As we impatiently await the New Year or the blossoming of the cherry trees, even long before it happened. We are really impatient. A bit like the French when they wait for Christmas. -On the archipelago, we savor the passage of the seasons. The Japanese maintain an intimate bond with nature, a relationship inherited from Shintoism, Japan’s other major religion, along with Buddhism. About a hundred kilometers west of Tokyo, Mount Mitake is considered a sacred mountain. At its summit, for more than a millennium, a sanctuary has stood. People come to walk there, recharge their batteries and above all honor the power of nature. -It is a sacred tree, very ancient. I hugged him to feel his strength with my whole body. -Japan presents different facets depending on the seasons. Nature and the environment can be formidable there. We must fear nature and respect it. Shintoism must have developed like this. We pray to the deities to avoid misfortunes and famines. And we live in harmony with nature, through the divinities. -At the heart of Shintoism, there are the kami, spirits who embody places, like this mountain, or natural forces, the sun, the wind. -The wind, the waving of the leaves, the sun, the coolness of the shade. It’s calming. We feel protected. When I see a big tree, I want to make a wish, as if there was a deity in that tree. This is why I love this mountain. -By affirming the sacred character of nature, Shintoism further shapes the link of the Japanese to their environment. Although seen as a highly urbanized country, Japan is actually 85% covered in mountains and forests. Even today, to recharge our batteries, we turn to nature. This group came to participate in the ritual of Takigyo, asceticism under the waterfall. -It is thanks to the power of nature, water and this place that we will purify our body and our heart. It makes you want to live happily. That’s why we do this. Clap your hands twice. We breathe, we lean forward, and while leaning, we exhale and we start again. -After a prayer, the participants take their place under the waterfall. There, water at less than 10 degrees hits bodies and minds. But it cleanses the soul and carries away the torments. Like a metaphor for nature, beautiful and powerful at the same time. … -Konnichiwa, Yuji-san. -Konnichiwa. -Good morning. What did you catch this morning? -The fish I raise here is called yamame. Such large ones are only found in Japan. We are lucky, the river supplies our ponds with water all year round. Yamame likes cold water. In this region, it is perfect for breeding. The pink flank of the fish evokes Japanese cherry trees, hence its nickname sakura trout. -It’s funny, because we’re now in another celebration of nature moving into fall. -We are the first to see the leaves turn red. It makes us proud. Come on, I’ll show you how to cut it. -Do you want me to take the cash register? -Yes. We feel that the sun is trying to break through the clouds. -Yeah, that’s it. Look how beautiful it is. Magnificent, I love the little body of water, the tree over there, which is starting to turn red, the house. This place is superb. … -I’ll scrape with a spoon. There, I’m going to decide it. -It’s impressive to see you do that. You are extremely fast. -The ambient temperature affects the fish, so you have to be quick to cut it. -Who taught you how to cut fillets and how to work with fish? -I’m just imitating my late father. I wasn’t really trained, I learned on the job. -He trained you well. It’s amazing to see you work. I can’t wait to taste this fish. -Come to the restaurant. -Okay! Go ahead, after you. Thank you so much. It’s warm here, that’s good. … -Take off your shoes, please. … -So. Flawless ! Can you make it through the entire meal, sitting like that? -In Japan, we call it “agura”, in business. But make yourself comfortable. -I’m going to put myself like this. -Ah, okay! … -Wow! That’s beautiful. Gorgeous. THANKS. -This is the fish I cut. It is smoked with sansho pepper oil. And there you have fresh soba from this year. -We want to photograph the plates, it’s a little work of art. -Arigato. -Okay, well let’s go! -Enjoy your food. It’s better when you make noise. Noisy suction. By making noise, you can feel the scent of the soup and the taste of the noodles more. … -It’s not bad. But I will progress. And what does this fish look like? I eat it like that or I put it in one of the… Like that. -We smoked it lightly to keep the fish taste. -It’s extremely sweet, much less salty. And it melts in your mouth incredibly. There is all the agricultural land, buckwheat, what the river allows you to do, this incredible fish. In one plate, I relive a little of my trip and what I discovered here. -It makes me happy that you enjoyed these flavors. Thank you for coming this far. … -I like getting around by bike. It helps me take my mind off things. And the landscape is pretty. When the weather is nice, I see planes passing by. -Airplanes are a memory of his previous life, when he worked for an airline. At 77, Tomio is retired, but has returned to work part-time. -Tuesday, Wednesday and Friday, I clean offices. And then, either on Saturday or Sunday, I come here to clean the paths. -This work allows him to supplement his retirement pension. But according to him, money did not motivate his resumption of activity. -Why am I working? I am 77 years old. I am an old man among old people. I think about my body, and if I spent all my time at home, my wife would kick me out. So that’s why I think it’s a good thing. If I didn’t work, my health would deteriorate rapidly. -In Japan, Tomio is not an isolated case. Here, older workers are part of everyday life. In the prefectures, recruitment centers are dedicated to seniors: the Silver Centers, temporary agencies where companies and individuals can recruit seniors. -Overall, there is a shortage of labor. In addition, we are faced with an aging population. Society needs the workforce of older people. It is becoming normalized in our society to see them work. -The Japanese archipelago has the oldest population in the world, which is not without consequences for the country’s economy. Japan lacks workers. Working for seniors is the beginning of a response, but Japan must explore other avenues, such as resorting to immigration. -This is Little Kathmandu. There are lots of Asians. It’s a mixture. There are Thais, Vietnamese, Burmese. I like coming here. I feel like I’m in my hometown. It looks like a small Nepalese village. Here, I feel good. Did you see? There’s even my flag here. -Lama does not live in Little Kathmandu, but he often comes there to do his shopping and rediscover the taste of the country. -I came to buy spices. It’s a mixture of spices. I can put it in my sauce, and make curries. I miss my country, so when I come here to get these spices, it makes me feel good. How much do I owe you? -You want a bag? -I don’t mind. -It’s been seven years since he arrived in Japan. He is one of 2 million immigrants representing less than 2% of the population. A low figure, but constantly increasing. -When I arrived here, it was hard, because of the language, but also the culture. You need to know how to behave with customers. I had the chance to learn all that, politeness, codes, the basics of being able to deal with customers, consumers. It was difficult. It seems easy, but it’s not. But once you know, you have the basics. -Upon his arrival, Lama studied the Japanese language and culture. Today, he is a bartender in a large hotel. -Half of the people who work here are foreigners, the rest are Japanese. Everyone works together. -With an unemployment rate below 3%, certain sectors are having great difficulty attracting candidates. In this restaurant chain, we found the solution to this. *-Your dishes have arrived. Please help yourself. *Meow. -Since 2021, customers of the Gusto restaurant chain, 1,300 establishments across the country, have become accustomed to being served by a robot server: Bella. -You see? There is a list of table numbers. I choose the destination table, validate, and it leaves immediately. When the customer has collected their dishes, the robot detects it and immediately returns to its place. -Aside from drinks, Bella is able to carry everything. A real help for the waitresses, sometimes overwhelmed during the shooting. -Thanks to this robot, I can serve everyone at the same time, families or groups. Customers at the same table are happy to have their dishes at the same time. That’s the advantage. -Bella is only the most visible part of this phenomenon. After robots, to respond to the lack of workers, artificial intelligence is being called upon. … -Konnichiwa. -Konnichiwa. -I have a question: where is my place? I can’t read my ticket. -It’s this way. I will accompany you. -OK, I follow you. -Wow! -Here you are in your place. -Thank you so much. Arigato. -Welcome aboard the Spacia X, heading to Tokyo-Asakusa. *Departure is imminent. Please take a seat. … Welcome aboard. A photo with the train sign? Can I take a photo? -Yes. Comments in Japanese. … -THANKS. Arigato. … -Health ! -Cheers! Do you often take the train? -It’s the first time. -What do you think? -It’s so luxurious and comfortable. And what’s more, not very expensive. -I adore. I’ve never seen a train like that, and I’ve traveled a lot. I find that quite extraordinary. There is a luxury, a refinement. I see you agree. It’s my last day. I’m going back to France and I’m going to be a little nostalgic for Japan. I really liked it. -OH… -Thank you. … … Well there you have it, friends, it’s here, above the Shibuya district, that my “Beautiful Escapes” to Japan end, at the moment when the country turns to autumn colors. These colors are starting to arrive in this park. What struck me was that in this gigantic city where you see neon lights and cars everywhere, I found a lot of humanity. There are plenty of rules to integrate. It goes from the way we say hello to the way we eat noodles. But once we accept and understand them, people are nice, and that allows for authentic relationships. This is what I liked and what surprised me about this adventure. I hope that you too will have understood Japanese society a little better. There is the replay to relive my “Beautiful Escapes”. I’ll meet you on social networks. See you soon for new adventures at the end of the world or near you. As they say here: Sayonara. Matane. See you soon ! france.tv access

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Échappées belles – Japon, les surprises de Tokyo 25 janvier 2025

Au premier regard, la capitale du Japon, située au coeur de l’île principale Honshu, emporte les visiteurs dans un tourbillon d’images, de lumières aveuglantes et de publicités géantes. Son chaos architectural, ses rues sans nom et ses trottoirs bondés peuvent perdre plus d’un voyageur. Ceux qui l’habitent parlent de Tokyo comme d’un pays, et de ses 23 arrondissements, comme de villes. Ce désordre ambiant cache en réalité une société très ordonnée. Même en pleine nature, où les esprits rôdent, comme à Nikko, lieu de villégiature des Tokyoïtes, les codes dictent la vie quotidienne. Alors quels sont-ils ? Pour tenter de les comprendre, Ismaël Khelifa va à la rencontre des habitants.